Thursday, December 20, 2007

The Tree- Sunday December 16th

Sunday December 16th - Tree Decorating:






















Tree Decorating 101. We got all in town involved (OK we tricked them into helping Deb). Bribery was chili and egg nog. Unspiked. This may be the first tree Granddaddy decorated! (If he has decorated in the past, he is keeping it a secret.)























Cutie is NOT happy about being part of the tree decorating team. On the other hand she did attempt to "help". Not. Mercedes hid.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

Ecuador - Day 0 & 1


Ecuador – November 2007

Day 0 (November 17, 2007) : After months of anticipation and planning, we finally made it to Quito (and more importantly to Christina)! We arrived in Quito at ~10:15pm. Made it through immigration and customs to see Christina’s beaming smile! Chris quickly negotiated a driver and gave directions to the hostel. We arrived at a well locked and gated Hostal Sandmelis..… Needless to say, we were a tad concerned, as was our taxi driver, because we wouldn’t let him go. After some searching around we found a buzzer and someone who helped us in and register. The hostal (sp for hostel in case you were wondering) is nice & clean. We have two (small) rooms, each with a private bath so there are no complaints!

Day 1: After a somewhat (but not totally!) restless night (we are in a busy city), we got up to find that Brian had not returned from his morning run. He has no phone, no id, and no way to contact us. We showered and by the time we checked again, both Chris & Brian (who had returned) were showered and ready for our breakfast (all inclusive). Where we are staying is considered expensive for the area at about $20/person for lodging and breakfast. After limping through ordering coffee (café au lait – well a Spanish version of the same) and having a typical Ecuadorian breakfast we packed up our stuff and headed for the bus station. Chris quickly proved herself invaluable as a very knowledgeable and guide and fluent in the local language! She has no qualms about asking strangers for information, and everyone ‘we’ talked to was very friendly. We saw several buses – and then the right one.
After about 1 ½ bus ride(s), we arrived at the Midad del Mundo. aka, the equator.


Well, actually 2 equators. The first equator we visited was actually the “real” one based on recent gps and magnetic testing devices. At the very chevere Museo Solar Inti Nan, there were lot’s of cool science and demonstrations regarding the earth’s forces at the true equator, and interesting Ecuadorian history as well. E.g. creating vortexes in water (Coreolis effect), balancing an egg on a nail head, etc. Some skepticism remained after the testing, but the theories are fun. There was a bit of Ecuadorian tribal history which was interesting, complete with an ancient recipe for shrinking heads, Don’t try that at home, but we all did try our hand (mouth?) at the blow gun. Then we went to what was thought to be the equatorial line in 1736 and for many years after. There we wandered around lots of cool monuments, shops, food, entertainment, etc.





During the hair-raising taxi ride back to Hostal Sandmelis, Brian managed to nap in the front seat(!?). Once back at the hostel, Christina and Deb went looking for Agua sin gas. After a lot of walking (it was late Sunday afternoon), we found the Swiss Bakery that had not only 5 bottles of agua sin gas (we wiped them out), but some very nice cheeses and pastries. Goods in hand, we walked back only to find if we had turned right out of the hostal versus left, we would have save about a mile and half of walking. But, selfishly, I wouldn’t have traded the walk for anything! It is so nice to be with Chris and our whole family!

A little before 5:00pm our hiking shoes went back on (or clogs), and we headed for Christina’s home in Ecuador on foot. Chris knew the way and the rest of us made mental navigation notes (since we would be returning the hostel w/o her tonight). Chris’s Ecuadorian home (owned by her ‘host mom’ Patricia) is a very nice 4th floor walk-up inside a secure but attractive, brick ‘compound’ of several apartment buildings. Complete with manned guardhouse and five levels of keyed entries. Patricia had invited several other guests to join us for dinner. Some of us spoke English, some Spanish, but only a couple (including Chris) spoke both well. But we all did our best and the conversation was quite lively and fun but a bit chaotic. Brian the good-looking gringo hombre was an instant hit with the ladies, and we all enjoyed discussing the sites of Equator, watching soccer, and eating some wonderful, authentic tamales wrapped in banana leaves.
After some nice dessert drinks (Patricia and her family were terrific hosts) we said ‘hasta luego’ to Chris and the others. Chris stayed there to study for classes the next morning, and Brian P, Mom, and Dad walked back (without incident) to the hostel for the nite.


Actually, we stopped in for a drink at a local Chinese restaurante, and even bought a couple nightcaps for the room, from the local panacia. We were all pretty tuckered out after our first day at 9500 ft, so turned in early in anticipation of another busy day manyana.

Ecuador - Day 2

Day 2 (Mon Nov 19): Today our trusty guide Christina had to go to classes (including a midterm exam) in Cumbaya  so Deb, Brian, and Brian Patrick found ourselves on our own in the big city! So we decided to do what we always do…go for it!

Contrary to Christina’s great directions (which we all forgot…those Spanish words all sound the same!) we walked to the autobus Estation del Norde and eventually found our way onto the right bus line down to Old Town. Riding the bus in Quito is an athletic contest between the driver and passengers. The driver tries to get a passenger to tip over and the passengers…well, try not to. It’s a very friendly competition, but quite strenuous for rookies. Fortunately, Chris had given us some great pointers in advance (like ‘get a grip before boarding if you’re the last one on, because your first step is a sign the driver can go. And he will’). Teamwork is key. Grip straps are very high so the passenger team allows its older & shorter players to sit. The taller players (which include all gringos) hold these straps with a death grip and everyone else sways against them like seaweed in the ocean current. Key gringo skills include a firm grip and good balance. Once the bus is packed full, no one could possibly fall so passenger patience and good hygiene become the critical factors. Hand signals and dancing skills are critical as each player makes his/her final move toward the door. All three of us gringos scored by successfully stepping off at Plaza Grande in the heart of Old Town. Victory! (or maybe just beginners’ luck).
We walked onto Plaza Grande at the finale of some kind of large ceremony including soldiers on horseback and a military band. Several dignitaries (probably the Presidente) were presiding over the whole precession from the balcony of the President’s Palace. What great timing!











After that, we wandered around Old Town somewhat aimlessly until hunger set in, so we ate at a courtyard café on the Plaza. The waiter was almost too attentive, but afterwards we learned why: he told us the couple sitting behind us were known pick-pockets, and please be sure we still had everything.












After some brainstorming we agreed Brian Patrick would take the bus back to the hostel solo (brave soul) to meet Christina for a run in Parque de Carolina.

Brian & Deb continued exploring Old Town together, which became another challenging ‘sport’. Our goal was to climb a hill east of Old Town to Café Mosaico and Parque de Itchimbia at the summit, both of which are renowned for their exceptional vistas. After a little wandering – amazingly all in the right direction - and a lot of climbing sidewalks and stairways through a hillside residential area (at 9100 feet), we found our way to Café Mosaico. Along with an amazing view of the city, a well-earned beer/wine/bottle of water and a Mesa (Greek) platter were our reward. Since it was Monday, everything was pretty quiet and, except for a well-seasoned Delta flight attendant and her boy friend (who lives most of the year on his boat in the BVI or Cape Cod), we had the patio to ourselves.













We completed our mission by climbing the short remaining hillside to Parque de Itchimbia. Interestingly, it was gated and guarded, but we walked in unhindered. A spectacular glass & steel building at the crest was basically deserted, but provided an impressive 360 degree view including Quito, Vulcan Cotopoxi(?) and the surrounding area. Although its population is only about 1.25 million, Quito is an amazingly large city geographically! It sprawls through a long, north-south valley and up onto the hills on either side. Now rested & recharged by the views, we hiked back down a different route, past a small bullfighting arena, and back into Old Town. Brian met a friendly old Ecuadorian man who spoke English well (rare) and sold alpaca Panama hats, scarves, etc (which we were actually looking for). So we somewhat reluctantly agreed to follow him to his store (which turned out to be good 6 – 8 blocks away!) and bought a couple hats and scarves for ourselves and others back home. We all re-connected by cell phone, and met up in Plaza Grande where we compared notes and people-watched a little. Brian Patrick’s bus journey back to the hostel had gone well ( another win for the passengers!) and they both had a good run.


























After eating a great dinner together at Fruteria Monserrate, Chris took us all on a wonderful, personalized tour of Old Town after dark. Lots of old but well-maintained Churches, museums, cathedrals, etc almost all built in Spanish architecture. The Ronda was a very interesting, narrow street lined with flags and paintings about

Walking around Old Town is another Quitotian sport. The streets are narrow but well lit, and busy with lots of small cars and small pedestrians. This sport resembles a kind of obstacle course wherein pedestrians navigate the countless tripping hazards and occasional open manholes stoplights and car traffic…

Chris spent the night at her apartment (after she helped get us back to the hostal safely!)

Ecuador Days 3 & 4

Day 3 (Tuesday November 20)
For breakfast B, B & D ventured out ON OUR OWN! We went to S’Panes and actually ordered from the menu (en carte). The pictures didn’t hurt. Afterwards we made our first unaccompanied taxi ride to the Telferiqo. Quito is at 9200 feet. The top of the Teleferico is above 13,000. Needless to say our sea-level lungs knew we were high! We hiked around a bit & took a lot of great pictures.



















We met Christina about 3pm. BPB, CMB & BWB ran in El Parque Carolina. DWB walked. We returned to the hostal for showers stopping at the Swiss Bakery for bread, cheese, salami and a bottle of wine for appetizers (and a late lunch) in the hostal.

















On the way to dinner at the Mariscal, we stopped at the Central de Comercial Quicentro (mall) to check it out. The Mariscal is a district known for lots of partying and food and a high crime rate, although we encountered no problems. We went to The Coffee Tree for drinks and dinner with fun musicians. Consumed light dinners, a bottle of wine and 4 cerveces grande. Afterwards we went to a funky café that Chris had been to before. The café reminded us of Kim. Had milkshakes, mochachinos and a glass of whisky. A most delightful evening! Took a taxi back to the hostal, read and crashed for the evening. (BWB finished The Last Striptease).





























Day 4 (Wed 11-21-07)BPB & CMB started the day with a run. We dressed had a quick breakfast (the breakfasts at the hostal are pretty good). We headed to Cumbaya with Chris from the Rio Coco bus line. Nice small upscale (it is all relative) community. Wandered the town. Lunch at Universitade de San Francsico Quito was tasty and prepared by some of the Culinary Arts students. Brian Patrick attended class with Chris.















After class we header back to Quito, packed our day packs with overnite clothes & headed to the main bus terminal for a trip to Otavalo- an indiginous community about 2 ½ hours away.

Well, lessons learned. Only the 4 of us boarded the bus. The “helpful” assistant insisted on putting Deb’s backpack above us on the rack. Everyone else held on to theirs. Then the attendant made Chris and Brian change seats to in front of us.

We arrived (finally) in Otavalo, found a great hostal (where Chris had stayed before), Hostal Vale de Amanecer. Deb opened her backpack to grab her purse – which was gone along with a rain coat and sun glassses. Of course “being prepared”, Deb had EVERYTHING in the purse. We quickly cancelled the Visa, ATM/Debir card (both of which had purchases already rung up.) Passport, DL, etc. Are gone. Well, for the rest of the trip, Christina and Brian Patrick supported their parents. We got friendly with the Internet Café /Cabina;s (phone booth) operations. Had a late dinner at an “organic” food restaurate that overlooked the plaza (Café Sol y Luna). Food was pretty good (healthy!), except dessert which was wonderful. Returned to the hostal and enjoyed sleeping in fresh air (the rooms were very simple with a shared bath).

































Ecuador - Days 5 and 6

Day 5 (Thursday 11-22-2007) – Thanksgiving in Ecuador. Quick calls to Chase and the consultate (which was closed) to make sure I wasn’t carrying two other cards (if we did we World really be in a World of hurt because that is what Brian & Chris were carrying.) We had a great breakfast at the hostal (after Brian & Chris ran and showered). We tested BPB & CMB’s ATM which thankfully worked so we could “shop” the market. Christina is quite a negotiator. 8 pairs of pants, a table cloth, a painting, 2 hammocks, etc.
















Later we headed back to the bus. The prices were amazing and the products were beautiful.

We returned to Quito & Brian ran again. Deb, Chris & Brian spent time trying to figure out a passport replacement plan. Got a hola of a marine at the US Consulate that said the Consulate was closed for the 4 day Thanksgiving holiday. Nothing would be available until Monday. Talked to Continental who arranged an alternative departure date for Deb (of Tuesday.) Quickly returned to the Hostal for a quick shower (although we were already soaked due to a huge rain storm). We changad clothes and headed for a Thanksgiving dinner at Maria’s house in Cumbayá.



Maria is the Resident Director for U of I. Most of the U of I kids and several other people
(including 2 gals who had atended U of San Francisco in prior years) pitched in for a magnificant, large & diverse dinner!


Maria is a most interesting person. Her husband is a bank vice president in Quito. Maria has establish a foundation and just built a pre-school for children in an indiginous community and has a lot to say about the Ecuadorian poliical situation. We enjoyed meeting Christina’s friends. Quite a group of characters! Took a taxi back to the hostal and spent quite a bit of time chatting with Cesar Cisnerous, the owner of the hostal. Both her and his daughter, Sandra (the GM) were very helpful and supportive. Went to bed after deciding to attempt to complete the passport replacement process (maze) and take a later start to Mindo as a family.

Day 6 (Friday November 23, 2007)
Called the US Embassy as a lark, got through and found that there is an emergency passport service. BWB and BPB went to the US Embassy and started running consulate traps & DWB & CMB traed to find passport photos. One thing we have learned about the Ecuadorian culture is that “I don’t know” is not an aceptable answer, so people make things up. After running between police stations, the US eEmbassy & funally finding passprt photos, we finally pulled things together and all to the appropriate police station. One the report was in progress, BWB and BPB ent to get a Cervece tee-shirt and lunch. CMB & DWBB completed the passport process with the police report, got lunch, underwear and a new raincoat. We met at the hotel at 2:50, packed for Mindo, & left at 3pm to catch a cab to a (different) bus station. (There is only one afternoon bus to Mindo). Amazingly, we made it on time, getting for of the last seats on the bus.



After a 2 ½ hour drive on winding mountainous roads (mostly down to 4500’ elev.), arrived in the cloud forest NW of Quito. Checked in to a hostal (Cecelia’s) next to the river. BWB had a terrible fall, severely pulling a quad. In order to keep Brian immobilized, BPB ran and CMB & DWB ordered pizza to carry in. Private pizza party on the hammock deck outside our rooms (complete with a bottle of wine).



While waiting for the pizza, CMB & DWB checked out an Internet café to find that Deb had a Sunday flight problem. (Continetal cancelled it). Slept sideways (bed was too short!) under mosquito netting.

Ecuador -Days 7 and Beyond

Day 7 (Saturday November 24th, 2007) As in Otavalo, woke to the sound of roosters. Thanks to ice and Advil, Brian’s leg was good enough to hobble on. We wandered (or hobbled) into town in the day light. Had a great breakfast at an open air restaurante complete with dive bombing humming birds. Chris & Brian ran.


BPB met us after a run. After breakfast, we found an outfitter. Chris negotiated a ride on the back of a local taxi (aka open air pick-up truck).





We hiked (painfully) down to a beautiful waterfall.








The we hiked up (also painfully for some of us…) back to our “ride.” Grabbed our bags, lunch and caught the bus back to Quito.

Chris packed her stuff, returned to the apartment for a shower and returned with a bag of stuff for us to bring home with us. We had a delightful dinner at a Japanese restaurante at the Swisshotel. We had a sad good-bye to Chris (although she will be home in about 3 ½ weeks). We finished packing and went to bed knowing we had a 4am wake-up call.

Day 8 (Sunday 11/25/2007)
The taxi arrived at 4:30. We made it easily to the airport & got through all the checkpoints. Because of an airline incident a couple of weeks ago, there was still a plane at the end of the runway, so we were going to have to make a refueling stop in Panama, so we know up front that there world be a delay. We boarded the plane, pushed back from the gate and waited. We finally took off for Panama, landed and again waited. (Efficient fueling is not their strong point.) By the time we got to Houston, we had missed our connecting flight. We attempted to get on the next flight to no avail. By the time we got home it was 11:30 p.m. CST – or 12:30 a.m. according to our body clock. And Brian had a 2+ hour drive to Champaign. Lauren graciously waited to drive down with Brian and the two of them got to Champaign after 2 a.m. Monday morning. For Brian Patrick, it was a 23 hour day.

Post Script- Day 10 & 11 – Tuesday – Christina’s grandparents (Opah & Nana) arrived for a visit. On Tuesday they all visited Otavalo (with their own driver!) and Wednesday they explored Quito. Christina was extremely well fed with them!!